Far North Queensland 2026

Elcee's FNQ Adventure has begun!

We finally rolled out of Brisbane around 10:00 this morning, heading north-west. After a quick coffee stop in Dalby, we continued on to Condamine, arriving mid-afternoon and settling into the Condamine River Caravan Park.

Before we'd even finished checking in, Elcee had her first misadventure! A fellow with a rather large caravan managed to reverse into her impressive bull bar. His metal toolbox came off second best, while Elcee barely noticed - just a few scratches on the bull bar and a slightly scuffed number plate. I'd say she passed her first outback toughness test with flying colours!

The real highlight of the day was catching up with Kel's niece, Maddie. She took us out to see her impressive new workplace at the MDH Wallumba Feedlot, where she's recently started work. It was fascinating to see the scale of the operation.

We headed to the Condamine Hotel for dinner with Maddie.

We continue our journey north tomorrow.

Day 1 complete. Plenty more adventures to come!

We started the day with another catch-up with Maddie, who met us in town before we headed out to Miles for breakfast at the Windsor Hotel. It was a lovely way to spend our last morning together before continuing north.

On the way back to Condamine we stopped at Chinaman's Lagoon, where I couldn't resist taking a few photos and then some more from Crawford Bridge back in Condamine. Such a peaceful spot and another reminder that some of the best places are the ones you stumble across.

After farewelling Maddie, we followed the Condamine-Roma Road. Not far along the road we also discovered Judd's Lagoon. What a beautiful little camping spot! Quiet, shady and right beside the water - it was exactly the sort of place we love. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to stay this trip, but it's definitely earned a place on our "We'll be back!" list.

We then turned towards Dulacca before joining the Warrego Highway into Roma. We topped up Elcee's water tank, wandered over to admire Roma's famous Bottle Tree, and then continued on to Injune.

A little bit of history: the giant Bottle Tree was relocated from a nearby property into Roma in 1927 and is believed to be well over a century old. Queensland Bottle Trees can live for more than 200 years, so this old fellow still has plenty of stories to tell.

Tonight we're staying in Injune, a little town (pop. 188) established in 1920 to support the Mount Hutton Soldier Settlement after World War I. It later became an important railhead and timber town and is now known as the southern gateway to Carnarvon Gorge.

Tomorrow: We'll be revisiting Carnarvon Gorge - almost twenty years since I last explored it with the kids. It will be interesting to see how differently I experience it this time around.

Today was all about Carnarvon Gorge.

We left Injune this morning with our Keep Cups filled, heading north along the Carnarvon Highway. We arrived at Carnarvon Gorge around 11:30 and set off on the walk to the Art Gallery.

The first section certainly got the heart rate up, with plenty of stairs before the track settled into a gentle wander through towering sandstone cliffs, rocky creek crossings, lush grasses and magnificent cabbage palms. Along the way we passed Boolimba Bluff, the Moss Garden and the Amphitheatre, each one tempting us to linger a little longer.

The final climb to the Art Gallery took us close beneath the towering sandstone cliffs, where we were rewarded with one of Australia's most remarkable collections of Aboriginal rock art. The ochre paintings were incredibly vibrant, with hand stencils, emu and kangaroo tracks, goannas, boomerangs and fishing nets painted in rich shades of red, orange and yellow. Deep engravings etched into the rock completed an extraordinary gallery that has survived for thousands of years. It was a very special place.

On the return journey we took the side track to the Amphitheatre. Hidden within the cliffs, this spectacular 60-metre-deep sandstone chamber is famous for its soaring walls and incredible natural acoustics. Getting there was part of the adventure - an uphill rocky track, a steep tiered metal ladder and a squeeze through a narrow rock crevice before emerging into this remarkable natural cathedral.

By the time we returned to the Information Centre we'd walked just under 13 kilometres in almost four hours. We're both feeling it tonight, but we're also incredibly grateful that such an extraordinary place is so accessible.

Back in Elcee, we headed towards Rolleston, pausing briefly at the Rewan Memorial, which commemorates the 14 Australian and 5 American servicemen who lost their lives in a tragic World War II air crash nearby.

Tonight: We rolled into Rolleston this evening, ready for a well-earned rest and already wondering what tomorrow's adventure will bring.

Today was definitely a slower pace... just what we needed!

We left Rolleston around 9:30 and continued north to Springsure, where our first stop, of course, was the Visitor Information Centre. We enjoyed wandering around town and snapping a few photos of the impressive Virgin Rock, towering high above the township. Country Visitor Information Centres have become one of our favourite places to stop - they're full of local knowledge and hidden gems.

From there we continued to Emerald, where we treated ourselves to delicious fresh cakes and a hot chocolate for me and coffee for Kel from a local bakery after enjoying a leisurely stroll through town.

As we arrived in Emerald, one of the great mysteries of the trip was finally solved!

For days we'd been noticing little white tufts scattered along the roadside. We first thought they were tissue paper... then perhaps flowers... and even wondered if they were bits of sheep's wool. Curiosity got the better of us, so we eventually stopped and picked one up for closer inspection. The verdict? Cotton!

The Central Highlands is a major cotton-growing region, and during harvest the raw cotton is compressed into enormous modules before being transported by specialised trucks to regional cotton gins for processing. Despite their size, tiny wisps of cotton escape during transport and are carried by the wind, leaving little white tufts dancing along the highways. Mystery solved!

We continued along the Gregory Highway through Capella before arriving in Clermont at about 3:00.

The caravan park was completely full, so we were directed to the Showgrounds. We have to admit, we have never again considered Showgrounds after a bad experience in Hobart, but what a pleasant surprise! There are only three other vans here, we are surrounded by wide open space, kangaroos visiting and the soundtrack for the evening is the gentle lowing of cattle in the nearby paddocks.

Best of all: after several busy travel days, the table and chairs have finally come out!

This morning we headed off as the sun was rising, making our way towards Charters Towers. There really is very little between Clermont and Charters Towers - apart from the Belyando Crossing Roadhouse and plenty of wide-open Queensland!

We'd been looking forward to a Devonshire tea at the historic Stock Exchange Arcade, only to discover we'd arrived just a little too late for the last serve of scones!

And, just to rub salt into the wound... my teapot arrived containing a tea bag. Horror of all horrors!! Anyone who knows me understands that tea deserves loose leaves and a proper pot! It seems the universe was reminding us that not every plan works out exactly as expected.

Despite the tragic scone situation, we enjoyed a short wander through this wonderful old gold rush town. Knowing my grandfather was born here, and remembering bringing Joan and Mum back to visit a few years ago, made it a very special stop.

As we were leaving Charters Towers we met Dawn, her gorgeous Frenchie Bijou, and her brand new Explorer Nomad motorhome. Of course, we stopped to compare rigs, swap travel stories and admire each other's homes on wheels. One of the lovely things about travelling this way is how you just meet people.

From there it was an easy drive into Townsville, where we checked into the Coral Coast Tourist Park, caught up on a little washing and general "life admin", before heading out to meet Sharon and Mark for a lovely dinner at The Fairfield.

Tomorrow: We leave the coast behind and head up to Ravenshoe to catch up with our good friend Pam before our Palm Island adventure begins.

Today we farewelled Townsville and headed north... although not before an unexpected detour to the dentist! Poor Kel has developed a troublesome wisdom tooth infection, so an emergency appointment was added to the morning's itinerary. Thankfully, all sorted, and we were soon back on the road.

Following the Bruce Highway, we travelled through endless sugar cane fields and banana plantations before reaching the coastal town of Cardwell. Stretching in a long, narrow strip between the mountains and the sea, Cardwell immediately appealed to us. We only had time for a quick look today, but it's definitely earned a spot on our list to explore more thoroughly on the return journey.

Just south of Ingham, an earlier traffic accident meant a lengthy detour, taking us through the heart of the working cane fields. It turned out to be an unexpected bonus, giving us a glimpse of sugar cane farms and life beyond the highway.

After lunch in Ingham, we continued north through Tully, El Arish and Mourilyan, before turning inland onto South Johnstone Road and beginning the climb up the escarpment. The scenery changed dramatically as we wound our way through the lush green hills, past Millaa Millaa, and finally into Ravenshoe, Queensland's highest town.

Our destination for the next few days was our good friend Pam's place...

And what a place!

Perched high on the Tablelands with absolutely stunning views across the countryside, it was the perfect welcome after a day on the road. We finished the day gathered around Pam's pot belly fire, enjoying her delicious homemade soup and meeting the real bosses of the property - her three beautiful dogs, Skye, TC and Red.

Tomorrow: We get to slow down a little... and we're looking forward to it.

Today was spent exploring Ravenshoe and its surrounds with our wonderful host, Pam.

Our first stop, of course, was the Ravenshoe Visitor Information Centre, which gave us a great introduction to the area's history. This is the traditional Country of the Jirrbal People, one of the Rainforest Aboriginal groups of the Wet Tropics. European pastoralists arrived in the 1880s, but the town really began to flourish after the railway arrived around 1910, opening up the region for dairy farming and the timber industry.

After a wander through town - including a visit to the bakery (of course!) and a browse through the country outfitters - we headed out to Millstream Falls.

Set in open woodland on the rain shadow side of the Great Dividing Range, Millstream Falls is reputed to be the widest single-drop waterfall in Australia. It was easy to see why it's such a popular stop. We wandered down to the lookout before following the signposted trail through the fascinating World War II camp.

Between 1943 and 1945, this peaceful bushland was transformed into a huge military training camp for battalions of the 7th and 9th Divisions. Each campsite could accommodate almost 1,000 soldiers, complete with tent accommodation, kitchens, washhouses and latrines. Today, the old granite-lined roads and pathways remain, quietly weaving through the bush and offering a glimpse into this remarkable chapter of Australia's wartime history.

From there, Pam took us along the wonderfully rough Army Swimming Hole Track to another set of falls where the soldiers cooled off during the warmer months. It's hard to imagine hundreds of young servicemen training in such a beautiful part of the country.

The perfect ending to the day came back at Pam's place. We spent the afternoon on her sun-drenched deck overlooking the valley, cups of tea and coffee in hand, chatting, watching the view and giving plenty of attention to Skye, TC and Red.

Favourite thought: Sometimes the best days aren't about covering lots of kilometres - they're about slowing down and enjoying where you are.